第20章内卡河上木筏行(1)
RaftingDowntheNeckar
马克·吐温MarkT>
&helahatIaswereartists,ourpartyroseperceptiblyieem;werosestillhigherwhehatedestriantourofEurope。
&oldusallabouttheHeidelbergroad,andwhichwerethebestplacestoavoidandwhichthebestoarryat;hechargedmelessthancostforthethingsIbrokei;heputupaf?inelunforusaaquantityht-greenplums,thepleasainGermany;hewassoanxioustodoushonorthathewouldnotallowustowalkoutofHeilbronn,butcalledupGotzVen’shorseanddmadeusride。
Imadeasketchoftheturnout。ItisnotaWork。Itisonlywhatartistscalla“study”—athingtomakeaf?iurefrom。Thissketchhasseveralblemishesinit;forihewagonisnasfastasthehorseis。Thisisersetoutofthewayistoosmall。Heisoutofperspective,aswesay。Thetwoupperlihehorse’sback,theyarethereiobeawheelmissing—thiswouldbecorreaf?inishedwork,ofcourse。Thatthingf?lyingoutbehindisnotaf?lag,itisa。Thatupthereisthesun,butIdidenoughdista。Idonotremember,now,whatthatthingisthatisinfrontofthemanwh,butIthinkitisahaystaan。ThisstudywasexhibitedintheParisSalonof1879,butdidnottakeaheydonotgivemedalsforstudies。
Wedischargedthecarriageatthebridge。Theriverwasfulloflogs—long,slender,barklesspinelogs—aherailse,ahemeherintorafts。Theseraftseandstrutosuittheessaremeheheywerefromf?iftytoonehundredyardslong,andtheygraduallytaperedfromaniheirsterns,tbreadthattheirbow-ends。Themainpartofthesteeriheboole;thethree-logbreadththerefurnishesroomforoeersmalelogsareneraroundthatanaverageyounglady’swaist。Thesoftheseveralsesoftheraftaresladpliant,sothattheraftmaybereadilybentintoanysortofcurverequiredbytheshapeoftheriver。
TheNemanyplaarroersacrossit,ifhehasoisalsosharplysuchplaces,theraftsmanhastodosomeprettyniugpilotiurns。Theriverisnotalwaysallowedtospreadoveritswholebed—whichisasmuchasthirty,aimesfortyyardswide—butissplitintothreeequalbodiesofwater,bystohrowthemaih,ahee。Ihesenarrow-edgeddikesprojectfourorf?iveihesurface,liketheergedroof,butinhighwatertheyareoverf?lowed。AhatfulofrainmakeshighwaterintheNedabasketfulproduoverf?low。
TherearedikesabreasttheSchlossHotel,aisviolentlysoiflasscage,watgthelong,narroalhthetralel,grazi-bankdikeandaimingcarefullyforthemiddlearchofthestebelow;Iwatchedtheminthisway,andlostallthistimehopihemhitthebridge-pieraselfsometimeorother,butointed。Onewassmashedthere,butIhadjuststeppedintomyroomamomenttolightapipe,soIlostit。
WhileIwaslookingdowhatminHeilbronn,thedaredevilspiritofadventurecamesuddenlyuponme,andIsaidtomyrades:
“IamgoingtoHeidelbergonaraft。Willyouvehme?”
Theirfacespaledalittle,buttheyassehasgoodagraceastheycould。Harriswaocablehismhtithisdutytodothat,ashewasallshehadinthisworld—so,whileheattehis,Iwentdowaahewithahearty“Ahoy,shipmate!”whichputusupoermsatondweentereduponbusiness。IsaidweedestriantourtoHeidelberg,andwouldliketotakepassagewithhim。IsaidthispartlythroughyoungZ,whospokeGermanveryartlythroughMr。Xwhospokeitpeculiarly。IderstandGermahemaniaveItalkitbestthroughaer。
&ainhitcheduphistrousers,thenshiftedhisquidthoughtfully。Presentlyhesaidjusteghewouldsay—thathehaders,andthereforewasafraidthelawwouldbeafterhimiergotorahappened。SoIcharteredtheraftaookalltheresponsibilitiesonmyself。
Witharattlingsoarboardwatttotheirworkahecableshottheane,andourbarkmovedoffwithastatelystride,andsoonwasbowlingalongatabouttwoknotsanhour。